Sapporo, I love you

Where else can you walk into the first bar that catches your eye and have a beer with the city's engineer? It would be one thing if it was just one drink, but then he'll treat you to another one.

— Can I ask you a personal question? — Yes. — Why are you sitting here alone? It's already late, and you apparently came here after work. — Oh, how to put it, we had a meeting with colleagues at a restaurant, it was a lot of fun and when it ended, I didn't feel like going home. — seeing my questioning look, he clarified. — Sometimes I need to... — Be alone with your thoughts. — Yes, I'm usually a good husband, I love my wife. I actually got married just a year ago. — he smiled. — But today I want to be alone.

We were sitting in a bar at the entrance to Sapporo's entertainment district Susukino — there are lots of bars, little shops, arcade games, and just a two-minute bike ride away is the TV tower — a "must-see place" for all tourists. Usually these tourists are so busy buying keychains and clothes, rearranging and sorting everything into plastic bags, that they completely miss out on real life. They won't go to the park. That same park where in the morning an old man in a cap sat feeding pigeons, now young people are hanging out. Girls in school uniforms eat ice cream and listen to two guys performing. The sound of their voices and guitars drowns in the noise of the flowing fountain. Japanese people come here. In general, this city, while having many attractions for tourists, is made more for its own residents. I mean, there's none of that worn-out festiveness, burned-out neon lights. The city lives, and there's something for everyone to do here. At the Hokkaido University museum, I met a Russian student who was being shown his future place of study. You lucky guy, Kolya!

I tell engineer Toshiya about my impressions, and he modestly nods his head, like thank you, we're pleased, we tried our best. Then the conversation turned to politics, and again I heard about Japan's poor economic situation. — Is this related to Fukushima? — No, this started about ten years ago. China and Korea have a number of strong advantages... — and then about distrust of the current prime minister, possibilities of early elections, and that Korean high-tech is better than Japanese. — I think Japan's time has passed. — he summed up our conversation with that phrase.

We sat for quite a long time, Toshiya looked at his watch. — I need to go, or else my wife... — he put two index fingers to his forehead, imitating a devil, and made a grimace.

I went home, while the city was still buzzing with life. I spent the first two days with English teacher Allie from Australia, whom I found through CS. We walked around together the first day, but clearly didn't click personality-wise. On the morning of the third day, the gas burner stopped working, and she blamed me for it. While I was scribbling another blog post at 8 AM, it was raining outside. She came into the room and asked me a loaded question: — Where are you going to sleep tonight? — I was actually planning to stay here, but if you want, I can pack up and leave now.

Fortunately, by the time I arrived in Sapporo, I already had four phone numbers I could call to find a place to stay.

— Taro, this is Ilya, I need help. An hour later we met at the TV tower and with all my modest belongings headed to his place.

He has another couple from Tokyo staying with him. His friends. They've been traveling by bicycle for three months, with two more months ahead. He's a photographer and web designer, and she's a nurse. Perfect time to sit down and eat.